Friday, October 27, 2006

disguised

no doubt when it comes to cultural matters (and women) France is a complex place. One such case is how most people have an instinctive negative view of all things American, yet American movies, TV shows and music are still dominant. I've got another, kind of baffling, example : the popularity of Halloween.
It all started about 10 years ago when, so goes the urban legend, some costume manufacturers (there were probably some candy makers involved too, they're quite evil, especially that Willy Wonka fella) decided to promote the event as a way to increase their declining sales. Pretty soon every mass-market brand was joining in, and now Halloween is a pretty mainstream event.
Not to sound all Johnny McCranky, but that's ridiculous. I grew up in a place where we celebrated Halloween as kids, and the whole thing seemed pretty organic. Sure, it was also a hugely commercial event, as pretty much all these things are nowadays, but at heart it was still kids going door-to-door asking for candy. To me that day carries many memories of my brothers and I running around our building with friends, dressed in our best getups. I specifically remember going as Axel Foley one year, basing my costume mostly on the fact that I carried a toy gun and could imitate his -unmistakeable- laugh. If you'd seen me that night, there would've been absolutely no way for you to convince me my costume wasn't convincing (FYI since my pic isn't on here: he's black, I'm not). I just thought it was the coolest and I reckon that's all that matters when you're 8. Plus I think my brother went as Daniel-san, so we were like a gang of little tough guys that day, no one would've dared mess with us.
This whole kids looking for candy is the basis of Halloween. It's not about Coca-Cola putting out a special orange bottle, or clubs hosting costumed parties, or even people coming to work with fake teeth, although that's part of it too. Therefore the tradition at the centre of that day doesn't really exist in France, even if I have in recent years spotted more and more random kids walking around with candy bags. But since I'm guessing 90% of people don't stock on sugary sweets, how can they honestly do the trick-or-treating thing ? Unless they've got a North Korean-size stockpile of stink bombs, in which case I should be buying some emergency M&Ms myself.
But even if trick or treating does become a national occurence, it still will feel weird to be, because of how the whole thing started. I've read a bunch of articles explaining how Halloween really was a Celtic (read non-American) tradition, and that that was the custom we had adopted in France, not the crass mass-market US kind. Like I said, this whole thing started very recently, quite probably due to some savvy entrepreneurs who recognized a marketing opportunity. If that's not typically American, I don't know what is.
By now you'll probably understand that I won't be going to a costumed party next Tuesday. If you feel the same way I do, I've got just the thing for you : a gig by the soon to be world famous The Goodfellas (best.name.evaaar). They mostly play a bunch of classic rock/R&B covers, in fact I've got an idea for a tee-shirt for them that would say "If you haven't heard G.L.O.R.I.A played live, you haven't been to a Goodfellas concert". Or something to that effect.
The concert is at my favorite bar, Le Reflet (Google Maps; Metro: Odeon or St Michel), right next to the Boulevard St Michel and Rue des Ecoles intersection. The official start time is 7pm, but I know they'll be playing till late, so come in anytime. I know that my stats say on average only 4 people read this blog, but to them I say "screw you, I'm an optimist". So join me on the crabby express and say yes to good live music, and no to fake traditions !

3 comments:

Holly Herrick said...

I went to a little girl's Halloween party in Cannes-la-Boca when I was a high-schooler in France. It was at the beginning of the French Halloween trend. Everyone was really excited that I was there and could authenticate the experience by being an American. There were 7 12-year old girls wearing witch costumes and a slightly bitter mom who insisted that the holiday was a result of candy corporations manipulating French children, but thought that the party would be fun for the kids. I sat in the corner eating a cupcake and thought about the similar French approach to McDonalds. (love, hate, love, hate)

Unknown said...

Hi Matt, thanks for the comment on my blog and also the tips for where to go in Paris..(Very usefull if you're a lost rookie in this froggyland..) For what Halloween's concerned, in Sweden it's a recent accepted tradition so people arent't really sure about what to do with it. But since swedish people put holiday and alcohol together, we pretty much get extra drunk that weekend. Your plan for Tuesday night sounded more sofisticated though. Anyway, happy halloween! /Ida

matt said...

holly: yes, Mickey Ds is another great example of this phenomenon. The French ambivalence toward all things American has gotten better since the dog days of post 9/11 (not the immediate aftermath, when pretty much everyone felt support, but during the whole Villepin vs the US government and Freedom fries episodes), but there's still very frequent reminders that this relationship is an uneasy one, at best. I guess a change in Congress might thaw out things more, we'll see.

ida: no worries, although I've been here for a while now I still remember feeling lost myself when I got here. As for my plan for Tuesday night, well, I don't know if sophisticated is how I would put it. I mean, it is a rock n' roll gig in a bar, so drunkenness is not out of the equation ;)
Do come over if you're in the neighborhood and you're looking to escape the costumed masses.